Late in 1942, the Germans introduced a new field cap. The caps were made from the same camouflage and fabric as their smocks and helmet covers, and were likewise reversible from Fall to Spring colors. Early production caps were fitted insignia, color coordinated to the appropriate sides of the fabric. This feature was dropped quickly and the vast majority of these hats were produced devoid of insignia. Caps were manufactured with and without air vents, and the vents can be machine sewn or painted steel eyelets.
The “M42” designation often seen today is creation of militaria collectors, not the German military. The camouflage cap was produced in virtually all of the patterns used for smocks and helmet covers, with possible exceptions of the rare pre-War designs such as “Variegated Leaf”, however, the extreme rarity of such patterns may simply mean that there are no surviving examples. They became general issue throughout the WSS and it’s likely this was restricted to combat units as was the case with other camouflage garments.
The design of the camouflage caps is quite basic. The parts consist of the sides, a sweatband, top and visor, with an insert made of split (essentially waste) leather. Although the profile of the cap is consistent with other German field caps, there are no fake folds and no lining due to the requirement that the caps be reversible.
The sweatband is sewn on the “Fall” side of the cap, but it appears most wearers rarely used this feature. In period photos, it’s extremely rare to find one with the band on the outside indicating the cap is being worn “brown side” out.
As with nearly all German uniform items, there are minor variations visible among surviving examples. Although generally more homogeneous than smocks and helmet covers, some caps are assembled with parts cut from different shades or patterns. Caps made from all matching parts not uncommon. Although long and short visors exist, most are about the same as the wool M43 caps (about 6cm).
The front peaks typically run from 8-9cm which is similar to DAK caps and lower than M43’s. Thread color is similar to that used on helmet covers, with numerous shades of gray and tan being found, often on the same cap. This is simply due to the caps being made on an assembly line, with several machine operators working on each cap- not every one had the same shade of thread in their machine.
When size markings are found, they are typically just the metric size, ink stamped on the top of the cap on the “Fall” side. SSBW, dates, eagles and the like are postwar fantasy.
No original examples nor period photos exist of these caps having been made in “44 Dot” pattern camouflage. Numerous period photos exist of various styles of field or tailor made camouflage caps, in WSS patterns as well as M39 Italian cloth. However, these were custom made items, not actual issue.
Distinguishing originals. Authentic examples of these caps today are worth several thousand dollars- but the vast majority offered for sale are postwar fakes. The main problem is that they consist simply of a couple square feet of fabric and thread, an original SS Zeltbahn yields enough period cloth to make half a dozen caps. This makes them one of the toughest items of WWII German militaria to confidently authenticate.
Given the availability of authentic materials, and aside from outright stupid errors in the pattern or assembly of a cap (it happens frequently as many fraudsters are not as talented as they think), about the only thing to determine is when the cap was made. Despite having collected WSS camo since 1981, caps are the one thing that still often vex me. Perhaps 25% of the time, (when confronted with a cap made from authentic fabric) I simply pass as I cannot be sure.
Found a possibly original cap? On something as small as cap, there is no magic panacea- it’s just feel and experience. Firstly, one needs to be able to separate WWII camo fabric from reproduction. If the fabric is the real stuff, then move on to the stitching. Warning! Many Zeltbahn has been “re-purposed” into caps and helmet covers over the past 40 years- such fakes are very, very common.
Well worn caps are simpler to deal with in this regard. As with the blurred edge cap above, the stitching is obviously old, the stitches are relaxed and the thread is faded. Typically, the caps were worn green side out, so the wear and sweat stains are usually on the brown side.
The wear, sweat and exposure also gives the hat a form, almost as though it is still on someone’s head. Caution- many collectors love dirt and grime- they equate it with real age. One needs to learn how to tell the difference and I don’t have room here to go into all that.
On lightly worn or newish condition caps, that are correctly made, it really comes down to the seams and stitches. One simply cannot use rotten thread in a machine- it breaks every stitch or two.
Above is the stiffener from an original M43 cap that I dis-assembled many years ago (it lost its battle with a herd of moths so I wasn’t really assaulting history.) It is made from split leather- NOT pressed paper as many collectors insist. I have seen two mutilated camo caps where this piece was visible and both had the same material. Treated leather, even if old and dry, has a different feel than pressed paper. Even though it’s not normally visible, if I feel creased paper inside a visor, the red flags start waving and no such cap has passed muster on other details.
The real danger here are caps made with real fabric and thread, worn for a long time by reenactors or whoever. Those will have genuine wear, forming and sweat stains. Scared? Me too. These caps can be a bitch. I made the plane tree camo cap above around 1990 and wore it to dozens of events. The thread and fabric are all authentic and the wear and tear is real.
One fallback for any authenticity questions is to become a member of one of the collector forums, where one can post photos of potential purchases ans ask questions. (I use Wehrmacht Awards) On the “real or fake” queries, I have found the answers to be accurate the majority of the time. Right or wrong, if an item is blessed on a well regarded forum, it’s likely to be good- or at least everyone thinks it is.
The small annual fee is nothing compared to the pain when one drops several thousand dollars on an old SMW camo cap that’s been humped up by Fast Freddy’s Ebay Treasures.