All information here is published in How to Shoot the U.S. Army Rifle; the Infantry Journal, pp 36-pp41 (Cover photo above) link here

How to adjust the loop sling

We are now ready for the second step- correct positions.

You won’t hit the bull’s-eye every time unless you are steady. Three things control your steadiness.

The Gun Sling
Your Breathing
Your Position

The gun sling supports your arm and rifle. lt binds the rifle to your arm in a single, tight, steady unit.

There are two ways to adjust your gun sling- the Loop and the Hasty.

The Loop takes longer to fix, but it is steadier. It is used in all positions except the standing position. This is how to adjust it:

• Place butt of rifle right thigh, barre! to right and muzzle point­. rng up.
• Rest rifle against inside of right forearm so that both hands are free to fix sling, and loosen lower loop, as shown here.
• Fasten it again near ehe butt swivel leaving yourself plenty of sling.
• Adjust the upper hook until the loop has the proper length.
• hen insert left arm through the upper loop, from right to left.

Another simple way is to twist the sling one quarter turn to the left, then insert the left arm into the loop between the D-ring and the lower keeper until the loop is around the upper arm.

How to tighten the loop

These pictures show how to tighten the loop into position on the arm.

• Pull on both parts of sling-jockeying them until the loop and keeper are close against the arm.
• Pull the D-ring forward and push the lower keeper and hook close against the arm to keep the loop in place.
• If necessary, push the outer part of the sling away from you wit the thumb- tightening the sling still more.
• Push the upper keeper down toward the hook.

A tight sling means a steady rifle

When the loop sling is properly adjusted on the upper arm, place the left hand, knuckles out, so that the sling passes around the side of the left wrist near the wrist bone. If properly adjusted, the sling is flat against the wrist.

Then, before you take your position, place the left hand so that the rifle lies in the center of the V formed by the thumb and the fingers of the left hand, with the hand forward against the upper sling swivel.

Note that some leeway is permitted in the position of the loop on the arm. The Manual prescribes that the loop should come above the bicep. But expericnce at The Infantry School shows that many men get better results with a lower sling. lt is important that “light” be visible between the sling and the forearm.

Be sure the sling is doing its share of the work in giving your rifle full support. A tight sling means a steady rifle.

We will discuss the hasty sling later- when we are ready for the standing position.

___

To download the entire manual, click here

Original US uniforms in new or nearly new condition with the US Army’s terms for each color.
L to R: Summer Service Shirt, M41 Jacket, Tanker Jacket, M1943 Field Jacket

Khaki Fever

Although the pestilence seems to have mutated into somewhat less virulent strains in recent years, it remains endemic to the hobby of WWII (and WWI) collecting/ reenacting. Precisely how and why it took hold decades ago is unknown- various theories exist but none can be confirmed.

Regardless, it is perhaps the single biggest misconception (headache) in this business. This post was just as valid in 1997, 2006, 2012, as it is today. I’m sure it’ll be so in 2032 as well.

Now what am I ranting about? Among many enthusiasts, there is a quasi religious belief that US WWII uniforms and equipment were made from beige colored fabrics. Nearly every day for 25+ years, we receive calls and emails questioning (or complaining) whether our US jackets, shirts, trousers, cartridge belts, packs, bags and whatnot are the correct color. They must be KHAKI! (beige)

When we have actual khakis (Summer Service Uniforms), despite having the largest and highest resolution photos in this market, we get drowned with calls asking if they are “khaki like in the photos”. It sounds like a joke but it’s not. No…we photoshopped over the purple polka dots…

Poor Gina has suffered through countless expert lectures about khaki. A few blue ribbon winners even fuss that our HBT’s, Helmets and, at least one, that our boots weren’t khaki. A couple have howled because their fieldgear wasn’t a perfect match for their jump uniform. It’s like a Monty Python skit. I can look at Gina and just say “khaki” and she throws pens at me.

This misconception continues despite originals being plentiful and their color(s) clearly being at odds with the gospel of the khaki cult. A reasonable person might think that these facts should act as a cure or vaccine, but the disease rages on. Over the years, I’ve come to consider this is a genderesque situation where truth is unimportant and contradicting a fantasy is a crime.

So let’s get Khakiphobic.

Historical Facts

During WWII, the only American Army uniforms that were actually khaki in color were the Summer Service Uniforms- commonly referred to as “khakis”. How shocking. Aside from khakis, all field uniforms and field equipment were one of several shades of olive drab, henceforth “o.d.”. The term o.d. was used both in official correspondence and documentation as well as by the soldiers. In our world, the best medicine is visual proof.

Originals- nothing is khaki except…Khakis!

Only the shirt is khaki

The most incessant complaints are for khaki jump uniforms, M41 jackets, musette bags and cartridge belts. Above are original items, all in mint condition, next to an original khaki shirt. Guess what…they ain’t khaki. All but the M41 were OD3 which, in most cases, equates to an olive-tan.

News Flash- M41 Jackets are even greener: To add insult to injury, original M41 Field Jackets were made from OD2 colored poplin. This tends to be range from a grayish tan to a grass stain green when new. (Emphasis on the last two words.)

If originals aren’t khaki, why does half the internet insist they are? My suspicion is twofold.

First, simple semantics. Most collectors differentiate OD3 from OD7 items by referring to them as “khaki” or “O.D.”. They realize khaki does not necessarily equate to the color of Docker’s, and that a khaki shirt or garrison cap is lighter than a tanker jacket or a Haversack. However, neophyte enthusiasts come into the picture and they take the term “khaki” literally. Throw in gamers and cosplayers and one has a mess.

Second, dyeing was imperfect in 1942. Much of the items worn by our troops faded, some of it relatively quickly so much so that it was one of the top complaints about the early HBT’s and M41 Jackets in general. Heavily faded OD2 and OD3 things do look beige- but they didn’t look that way when new. And new is the look we are striving for in our products.

The photo below shows the fading problem clearly- both pouches are made in the same year by the same manufacturer.

The infection has spread

Some years ago, we carried a less expensive line of US gear from a surplus company from Chicago. For a year or two it looked good and was a near perfect OD3 color- just like originals. Then a beige shipment arrived. I called them to ask wtf. They told me they were tired of all the returns from the khaki weenies howling that they didn’t want green chit. It must be KHAKI!

Now, it appears that most other manufacturers of US gear have bowed to the khaki mob and now make everything in stunning and brave beige.

At least one offers khaki AND “od3”.

Gag.

Two of the most plentiful & popular (cheap) reproductions on the market surrounded by every original Haversack I could scrounge. The difference is oh so subtle…

It’s amazing how stunning beige lights up the forest as the troops march by, alerting even the most myopic and hungover of Wehrmacht snipers lurking in their plywood bunkers. Yes, besides being totally wrong, it’s almost as attention grabbing as hunter orange.
When it fades a little it will be basically white. Of all colors! Awful.

Apparently the fever hit the beaches too.

In recent years the mania has spread to German gear as well. The demands for khaki (or golden) breadbags, packs, and A-frames have increased dramatically- maybe thanks to TikTok videos posted by expert historians. Yes, the Germans had a smattering of khaki-ish items, but most of those were more a mustard tan in color, with the bulk of their canvas gear being a shade of olive or fieldgray.

I’ve resigned myself to the idea that there is no cure. I’ll give a big nod to social media where many have valiantly fought the fever with me, but regular outbreaks still occur as new enthusiasts continue to drink the Khaki Koolaid from where ever it flows. For our part, it’s exasperating but we will never give in. We’ll only make it khaki if that’s the color it was in WWII.

Signal Corps Photo Sizes Then & Now There is a cohort of history maniacs who periodically bleat that we should follow the WWII sizing tariffs to the letter- make the same ratio of each size uniform as was done in the 1940’s. Then their time warp will finally be correct! These guys may be intelligent and capable in other disciplines, but when it comes to selling clothing they’d be bankrupt within 30 days. Why?   Biologically-born-male humans are proportioned a bit differently today than they were during World War II.    According to the US Army QMC, the average WWII soldier was 5′ 8″ tall, 144 pounds, wore a 36R jacket, 32 x 32 trousers, and 9D shoes. Today, as per multiple sources on Google, the average American male is 5’9″ tall, weighs 197 pounds, wears a 42R jacket, has a waist of 40″ and 10D shoes. So…that additional 50+ pounds of modern muscle makes the WWII tariffs functionally useless.    The average sizes we sell today mimic the modern averages almost to the letter: 42 chest, 40 waist, and 10.5D shoes. I used the tables in Appendix XXIII from “Quartermaster Supply in the ETO in WWII, Vol. 3” and our most recent sales ratios, extrapolated those numbers to match the quantities from 1945 and created comparison tables in both raw numbers and percentages.     The US Army numbers are what the Quartermaster predicted 100,000 men would need as replacements every 30 days. (13,000 field jackets and 35,900 HBT trousers).   (Click on table for larger image. Yes, it’s secure.)       Not an indictment: Yes, I realize that the average age of soldiers in 1945 was younger than that of our average customer, and that they were typically more physically active, frequently had poor and/ or restricted diets etc, etc…    I’m not dimension shaming nor attempting to pull any triggers in any way- these are just real statistics, then versus now. This also explains why there are next to no originals in larger sizes.

Jacket, Field, Pile, O.D.The M1943 Field Uniform, which, with gradual updates, remained in production for the US military for over 40 years, had a rather controversial and tortuous birth. Despite apparent utility of the design, numerous high ranking officers attempted to stop or sabotage production repeatedly due to differing personal preferences, mostly regarding “soldierly appearances”. One of the most embattled components of the new layered uniform was the liner. After months of testing, a pile lined jacket with knit cuffs and collar was decided upon by the QMC. However, another faction within the US Army continuously lobbied for the Ike Jacket to become the new uniform instead- when that battle appeared lost, they insisted that the short wool jacket be used as the liner. Months of bickering ensued which caused repeated production delays, ultimately causing a critical shortage of M1943 Field Uniforms in the Fall of 1944.

This resulted in liner production beginning in the Summer of 1943, followed by a gap in new contracts (while the generals battled to get some other uniform more to their liking produced instead) with new batches not being started until the following Summer.

Issue of the liners was by no means universal, with many soldiers wearing sweaters or other jackets to accomplish the same purpose. Given that the liners have a sturdy outer shell, they were often worn on their own without the field jacket. In period photos, they can often be mistaken for tanker jackets unless the front is visible. allowing one to see the buttons.

 

The first liners were spec number 368A, Jacket, Field, Pile, O.D. approved 30 June 1943, with contracts dated in late July. Quantities made are unknown, but I suspect they were substantial, given that 75+ years on, original examples are not terribly rare. The liners generally appear to be a rather ugly child born of a B15 Flight Jacket and the mailman.

The shell is O.D. 7 cotton poplin, similar (if not the same) as that used on M41 Field Jackets, with two slash pockets. The interior is lined with woolen pile, and the neck and cuffs are trimmed with knit wool to prevent the wind from entering.

The fronts is closed via 6 large plastic buttons, fastened through cord loops rather than buttonholes- likely due the difficulty of sewing buttonholes through the pile and impracticality of zippers for troops likely to be wearing gloves in freezing conditions.

No provision was made to attach the liners to the field jackets themselves- they were simply worn as one coat over another.

 

In March of 1944, the design was amended slightly, with the new contracts being issued starting in May, as spec number 368B, as Jacket, Field, Pile, O.D. Type B. Some spec labels describe these as “Pattern B” in addition to or in lieu of “Type B”.  All Type B’s appear to have an instruction label added below the size tag at the neck.

Additionally, some 368B’s have the pile lining covered with a layer of OD3 cotton twill (the fabric used for Tanker Jackets and Jump Uniforms). Examples seen of this type with the “khaki” interlining, were to date, all from the May 1, 1944 contract, and the spec date of March 1944. 368B’s from subsequent contracts, have a spec date of July 1944 and have all had the more typical exposed pile inside.  So, it appears that the covered lining was only for the early 368B contracts, after which they switched back to the exposed alpaca.

Later production runs of 368B’s appear to be identical to the 368A’s from the previous year aside from the instruction label in the neck. Liners produced in the immediate postwar period, spec no. 6-440, have the pile lining again covered, but this time with a nylon or rayon fabric instead of the cotton twill of the early 368B’s.

About WWII Army HBT Uniforms
This page consists of my observations and analysis of authentic WWII garments with some input from Risch and Pitkin’s QMC Historical Studies, Clothing the Soldier of WWII.
With over 25 years experience manufacturing reproduction garments, I hope to be able to offer some insights not usually found in typical references. Despite this being one of the most prolific uniforms of the Second World War, and authentic examples being relatively plentiful, the available reference material is surprisingly scant.

Prior to the outbreak of WWII, soldiers in of the US Army were issued a blue denim jumper, trousers, and hat for fatigue duties and used the cotton khaki shirt and trousers as their summer uniform.

By the late 1930’s, the Army recognized the need for a more practical uniform in a more suitable color. In 1941, a green uniform made from cotton herringbone twill (HBT) fabric was introduced to replace both the denim and khaki cotton uniforms for work and field operations. Shirts, trousers, coveralls and caps were produced. These garments were issued to all Army personnel in all theaters of operations, ultimately becoming one of the most common garments worn during WWII.

L to R: 1st pattern, 2nd pattern light shade, 2nd pattern OD7	L to R: 1st pattern, 2nd pattern, 2nd pattern OD7, 2nd pattern April 1, 1944 and later

The “First Pattern” HBT
The Army introduced the Two-Piece herringbone-twill work suit in 1941 to replace the creaky denim pants and jumper. This uniform is referred to by collectors as the “first pattern HBT” and the color as “sage green” with both terms being contemporary and were not used by the US Army or QMC in WWII. The actual government name for what is called “sage green” today was OD8. Yes, it and OD7 are out of sequential order.

The first pattern jackets, Spec. Number 45, were waist length, with two pleated breast pockets, an adjustable waist band, and bi-swing back. The trousers were essentially the same pattern as the khaki and wool models with straight legs, four internal pockets, and a watch pocket. Both garments used metal tack buttons for closures.

These uniforms were widely issued and were worn in all theaters of operation until the end of the War. Production of both ran into the Fall of 1942.

1st Model Jacket	Spec. No. 45, April 1941.	Bi-swing back, gusseted armpits, adjustable waist	Cuff and waist detail
1st Model Trousers	Same pattern as the khaki trousers	Button fly, watch pocket	Lining was either white twill or the HBT (same as the outside)

The Simplified Two Piece Suit
By early 1942, government contractors were struggling to supply enough of the HBT uniforms to supply the needs of the Army. This fact combined with complaints from the troops regarding their design led to the garments being modified in order to simplify production and improve their functional characteristics. New designs for both garments appeared in late 1942- these uniforms are referred to by collectors as “second pattern”- while the Army termed them “simplified two piece suit”.

The new jacket was greatly simplified; the bi-swing back, adjustable waist and gusseted armpits were gone, the breast pockets were simpler and much larger. The already loosely fitting chest was enlarged another 2″. They were now 10″ over the marked size due to the design concept that they be large enough to be worn over a field jacket.
The new trousers had a larger seat for better freedom of movement, a higher rise, and the internal pockets were replaced with two large cargo types on the hips.

The “Specials”

At this point, the Army was going to great lengths to protect troops from possible chemical warfare attack. In late 1942, most tops were modified with “gas flaps” on the chests and cuffs while trousers were fitted with overlapping flys in an effort to prevent blister agents from reaching soldiers’ skin. Garments modified or produced with these features had the term “Special” added to their name. The Specials appeared early in 1943, with contracts running concurrently with non-special garments.

The first specification for 2nd pattern jackets did not have a gas flap. This was the 45B which was only made for a brief period at the end of 1942 and into early 1943. In Jan 1943 the first “Special” was approved, the short-lived 45C, (Jan 1943) which was identical to the 45B, except for the addition of the gas flap and buttons under the rear of the collar for an anti-gas hood. In March 1943, this was replaced by the 45D which eliminated the yoke at the shoulders. This model was manufactured through the end of the War in both OD8 (sage green) and OD7. The Quartermaster did differentiate uniforms made in the two colors by assigning them separate stock numbers.

“Special” Trousers made in sage green had Spec numbers 42A (Oct 1942), 42B (Jan 1943), and finally 42C (March 1943)- the latter, like the 45D jackets, was made in both sage green and OD7.

Spec 45B- no gas flap, OD8.		Spec 45B. Note the two piece back.	45B Label.
45B- made with the 45D one piece back but no gas flap	Inside.	One piece back.	Label has been edited by hand at the factory. According to the stock number this is actually a Spec 45B jacket- not a 45D

Spec No. 45D	The gas flap	The gas flap shown when closed	This pattern was approved in March, 1943
Buttons for the hood- both plastic and metal tack types were used		Example with optional center pleated pockets	Spring 1943 production- no such thing as a “3rd pattern”
Simplified aka “2nd pattern” trousers	Spec. No. 42C, March 1943	Early “high pocket” pattern	Overlapping fly acts as a gas flap

A New Shade
During 1942, the sage green color was determined to be unacceptable. Even when new, the color was too light for concealment purposes, and use and exposure led to fading, further exacerbating the problem. After lengthy tests and field trials with various colors and camouflage patterns, the OQMG decided on olive drab shade number 7 as the best solution.

The “OD7” uniforms entered production in early 1943. Garments were made in both sage green and OD7 simultaneously due to the Army permitting the manufacturers to use up existing stocks of fabrics before switching to the new color.

The two shades- olive drab 8 vs. 7	A “classic” example of an OD7 HBT Jacket	An early production jacket, in a more greenish shade	…and a more brownish shade
Cuff detail	Plastic button variation	Spec 45D, OD7	April 1943 pattern date
Pre-April 1944 trousers	Spring 1943 production, Spec 42C	Notably shaded gas flap- a somewhat atypical trait	Comparison of the pocket positions
April 1944 pattern change	Spec date 3-43, pattern change 4-44, contract signed 7-44	The “new” pocket location was much more practical	Later trousers (L) vs. earlier production (R)

The Pocket Drop
The HBT uniforms would retain this same design throughout the end of the War. In April, 1944, one small change was made to the trousers by lowering the hip pockets 3-4 inches to make them easier to access when the soldier was wearing a field jacket. Due to the late date of this change, it is unlikely that any trousers with the lower pocket position were used during the Normandy Landings in June, 1944.

Manufacture
HBT uniforms- jackets, trousers, coveralls and caps were all made using the same assembly methods as other WWII American uniforms. The parts were cut with power knives or die punched and individually tagged to prevent shading. The contractors used standard lock stitch machines for single seams and two-needle chain stitch models for the felled, interlocking seams. Belt loops and pocket corners were reinforced with bartacks (usually 18 or 28 stitch). Both corded eyelet and standard tacked buttonholes were allowed by the OQMG. Tack buttons were attached with hand or foot presses while plastic buttons were affixed by machine. Spec labels with the item name, size, manufacturer, and contract information were placed in the right hand pocket and woven size labels sewn into the necks, waistbands or sweatbands.

Production Variants
With dozens, perhaps hundreds of firms assembling HBT garments, there are several common variations encountered on authentic WWII examples. Some are due to the Army permitting substitute components or assembly methods due to shortages of materials or equipment, while others simply come with the territory when hundreds of thousands of garments are being made by numerous manufacturers using fabric and parts supplied by hundreds of companies- often as quickly as possible.

The “3rd Pattern” fantasy
On the “second pattern” jackets and trousers, the QMC allowed the manufacturers a choice on how to construct the pockets. They could make them plain front, with an expandable gusset on the outer edge, or sew the edges flat while having a 1″ pleat in the center of the pocket. Some enthusiasts have christened HBT uniforms made in the latter style as “3rd pattern” or “Korean War”. Neither is true. The pleated pockets were used on both sage green and OD7 uniforms, and the spec labels show production ranging for the entire period (1943-45).

	The pleats in the center of the pockets were a variation, not a later pattern	Both trousers are Spring 1943 production

Buttons & Buttonholes

The most common closures used are black (or occasionally olive drab) metal tack buttons with a 13 star design on the cap. One occasionally finds sage green uniforms made using tack buttons with a hollow center and wreath design in lieu of the 13 star type. Lastly, some uniforms (both sage green and OD7) were made with plastic buttons- sometimes the caramel colored type seen on wool trousers or the OD7 style used on M1943 Field Uniforms.

As with the pleated pockets, uniforms with plastic buttons are often automatically declared to be “Korean War” by less experienced enthusiasts- but the spec labels and photos prove otherwise. The soldier on the far right in the June 1944 photo above clearly has plastic buttons on his jacket. Their use is scattered throughout the range of production dates (1943-45) making them yet another permissible substitution.

Both the standard “bartack” and corded eyelet type buttonholes are found on original garments.

Thread
The thread color was obviously meant to match the fabric- but during the transition from the lighter color to OD7, it’s obvious the factories were using up what was already on hand. There are sage uniforms sewn with dark olive drab thread vice versa.

Shading

As with all wartime garments, the shades of sage green and OD7 vary markedly. The sage green can range from nearly a gray to a bizarre green approaching a faded turquoise- very reminiscent of ACU’s. The OD7 is likewise quite variable. At times the two colors appear nearly the same depending on the variations on the garments being compared.

		Q: Is that OD7? Or is that OD7??? A: Yes.

Issue and Wear
The HBT uniform was general issue to all personnel in the US Army thus the number produced was in the millions. The garments were utilized throughout the entire conflict, in all theaters. Wear depended on the weather- in hot climates, this was the primary uniform, worn often by itself. In cooler areas, the HBT’s were worn in conjunction with the OD’s (wool shirts and trousers) and field jackets. Some units and troops chose to wear the top over their field jackets- the best known photographic example being the 4th Division troops on Utah beach. Others troops wore them underneath other garments.

Jackets were frequently worn tucked in at the waist.

All patterns and both colors were issued and worn through the end of the War, and some were later utilized in Korea.

	Both light and dark shades clearly used together		4th Division troops wearing the HBT top over their field jackets

Concerns for Living History

Models: Which pattern/ color is “correct”? From early 1943 onward all styles were issued and in use. First pattern uniforms were undoubtedly still being worn on VE Day. The second pattern, OD7 uniform (also the most plentiful reproduction) is historically correct for anything from mid-1943 onward. Since 99% of living history is concerned with D-day and afterward, it’s an easy choice. All variations were in wear prior to D-day except for the low pocket trousers.

The Pocket: The post April 1944 production trousers were probably not used at D-day. It’s within the realm of possibility that some were finished in May and flown over (there were rush air shipments of various critical items constantly being sent to England) but regardless, the vast, vast majority would have had the higher pockets.

Light shade? Dark shade? Which is correct? The most despised answer for Living Historians- BOTH. Sorry.

This jacket is way too big! Blame the US Army. These were designed to be worn over a field jacket- so they are cut 8″ oversize on 1st Patterns, and 10″ over on “2nd Patterns”. (ie: a size 40 HBT jacket has a chest circumference of 48″ or 50″). Most men’s jackets are 6″ or 7″ oversized.

Airborne Ranger Short Visor Caps: 100% BS. At the end of the War the QMC issued a new specification lengthening the visor about 1/2″. The only change during the War was switching from OD8 (sage green) to OD7 (dark shade).

The pants aren’t sexy: This is a common complaint- not a joke. Trousers in the 1940’s were not cut like they are today- the rise on WWII pants is, on average, about 2″ higher than that found on most modern ones. These were designed by the US Army for engaging in manual labor, military training and combat. Not showing off one’s curves at the county fair.

Insignia? Yes or no. Wartime photos exist of these uniforms being worn devoid of rank and unit patches- as well as otherwise. With combat troops, sterile (plain) jackets are far more common.

Honor guards and parades: This was a work/ combat uniform. George S. Patton would likely have snarled at the idea of it being worn for an honor guard, but there was a war on and all manner of distasteful things happened and the grooming standards were undoubtedly violated now and then.

Marines? This is not the USMC Utility uniform. However, wartime stories of the Corps’ skill at obtaining Army property abound, and there are a few period photos of Marines wearing Army HBT uniform components. So yes, it happened, but the Marines had their own, specific HBT clothing which was different in cut, weave and color from these.

31 December, 2018

The M1943 Field Jacket was the main component of the the US Army’s improved combat uniform issued in the latter part of the Second World War. This jacket, with only minor design changes, was issued to American troops for the next 50 years, and is still manufactured today for the civilian market.

The United States entered WWII with her troops wearing “Parson’s jackets” (M1941’s) and wool serge trousers as their field/ combat uniform. The M1941 Jackets were found to be wanting almost immediately- they were not warm, they weren’t wind or water proof, they were too short and they had an open collar. When washed the wool lining shrank more than the cotton shell leading to a decidedly awkward appearance. The trouser fabric was too thin causing them to wear out quickly, they lacked warmth and they often split apart at the seams. The flood of complaints from troops in the field compelled the Army to take action.

The Quartermaster Corps quickly convened a panel of advisers, including designers from several large clothing manufacturers, to create an entirely new field uniform to address these concerns. The ensuing drama was worthy of a miniseries and is too long to address here, but it was the typical human conflict of common sense and good research data colliding with fragile, over-sized egos of a few high ranking individuals. Luckily for American soldiers, the former ultimately persevered and the M1943 Field Uniform was born.

The new field uniform was a layered system consisting of the field jacket, jacket liner, field trousers, and hood. Layering retains body heat far better than a single garment, while also permitting the wearer to add or remove layers to according to the temperature. This post will cover the jackets issued in WWII.

One of the major shortcomings of the M41 Jacket was its lack of warmth and total lack of water repellency. The thin poplin shell fabric was obviously not the appropriate choice for the new jacket. In 1942, the only way to have water and wind proof fabric was to coat it with rubber, which was impractical. The best option was to use cotton cloth made with tightly woven, very fine yarns and treat it with chemical finishes to help them repel water as much as possible. Ultimately a tough cotton sateen cloth was chosen for the outer garments, which provided a decent degree of protection. The wool lining of previous coats was dispensed with (although a test batch of wool lined M43’s was supposedly made) as it necessitated dry cleaning and had the aforementioned shrinkage problems.  A cotton poplin lining was used instead since a separate liner was planned.

The pattern of the jacket was a remarkable exercise in common sense. The cut was loose and roomy for freedom of movement and to allow more layers of clothing to fit underneath. Four large pockets were provided, with the lower two being internally reinforced with 3/4″ webbing to better distribute weight when stuffed with ammo and grenades. To help keep the wind out, the cuffs and collar could be closed tightly and a drawstring was provided at the waist. The designers decided against using a zipper as they often broke and were difficult to operate with gloves on. However, it is not uncommon to find WWII jackets tailor modified with various types of zippers.

The QMC specification number for the field jacket was 370 (the field trousers being 371). This can be found printed on the spec labels in the right lower pocket. Periodically, improvements and pattern changes were made, which were indicated by a letter following the spec number. The date these specifications were issued into effect is also present.

Note on label dates: The pattern or spec date is when the design was completed and accepted. The contract date is the day the contract went into effect. Precisely when production of the garments began is unknown, although it would likely be within a few weeks of the contract date. The gray area is what happened if a manufacturer wasn’t finished with their run from the preceding contract when the new one was issued. I suspect every possible scenario occurred depending on the individual contractor, how anal the government inspectors were about enforcing such things, and which course of action was most profitable. It’s quite likely that 370C’s and 370B’s could both have been in progress on the same production line for some days or weeks. It’s also doubtful that every jacket made after 31 December, 1943 was a Pattern B. What was cut out would have been finished up before cutting the new garments. Lastly, remember there was no internet or email in 1943, meaning updates and contracts had to be mailed which could take days or weeks to arrive.

A 370C label

WWII Jackets: Realistically, there were three patterns worn in WWII. 370B, 370C, and 370D. The two earliest ones (370 & 370A) were prototypes, with actual numbers completed unknown, so a few may well have gone into combat. To date, I have never heard of any originals still in existence. 370E would not have begun production until 1945- meaning perhaps a few arrived by VE Day, but none were in the Ardennes or at Nijmegen.

The BIG change: As soon as troops began receiving their jackets, complaints arose that they were too tight when the pile liner was worn underneath. As initially designed, the field jacket had 7″ of ease in the chest (ie: a size 40 measures 47″ around the breast) which is standard proportion for most coats and jackets. The pile liners are as thick as a tanker or flight jacket so more room was needed.

To correct this, the design was amended effective Dec 31, 1943. This was called “Pattern B”. From this point on, the patterns were altered with chest measure being increased 2″ and the upper arm circumference by 1″ to allow more room for the liners. The name “Pattern B” was used rather than a new spec number in order to allow supply personnel to more easily differentiate the two cuts of jackets when issuing them to troops.

All future patterns of field jackets used this sizing. Therefore, all 370B’s and about half the 370C’s (the first 6 months or so of all field jacket production) are cut like a typical men’s jacket. The latter batches of 370C’s, and all 370D, 370E, M50, M51, and M65 jackets are the Pattern B cut.  (On Aug 1, 1944, Pattern B was itself amended slightly, but to date we have not determined what that change was.) Thus, most field jackets made have 9″ of ease in the chest, leading people to complain for decades that they’re far too large or mis-sized.

The 370 Series: Below are the main details of each pattern. There were some other very minor changes (such as a fractional change to the shape of the button tab under the pocket flaps) that we didn’t list. Keep in mind that millions were ultimately made, resulting in subtle variations and specific traits of one pattern sometimes appearing on the next or previous one likely due to overlapping production (or simply human error) in some factories.

This information came from an old Militaria Magazine article, which I expanded a bit using data from the QMC archives and examining and measuring my 30+ original M43 jackets.

 

Quick I.D. guide: First, check the maker label in the lower right pocket. It will have the model number on it. If it’s missing or illegible, the main physical differences between the wartime issue jackets are:
370B
-Long epaulets, with the button actually placed on the neck
-Two buttons to hold the neck flap
370C
-Normal length epaulets, button on the shoulder
-One button to hold the flap
370D
-Large white instruction label added to the neck
370E
-Usually they have a dark OD7 lining with the instructions printed on the fabric itself. A few still use OD3 lining and a white label, but it now has a small illustration on it.

1. Specification PDQ 370, dated May 29 1943. Prototype only.
-The collar can be buttoned in an upwards position by a piece of cloth under the collar, it can be buttoned in two positions, depending on what type of clothing is worn underneath.
-13 sizes are available, three lengths are available, Short, Regular and Long.
-Makers tag is in the right breast pocket, printed on cheese cloth.
-Size tag is sewn in the collar.
-There is a loop sewn in the collar to suspend the jacket when not worn.
-The bottom of the sleeves are closed like the wool shirt.

2. Specification PDQ 370A, dated June 30, 1943. Prototype only.
-The piece of cloth under the collar is placed lower.
-The bottom of the sleeves is hemmed by just one row of stitching.
-13 sizes available, 2 lengths , Regular and Long.
-Two lengths of cloth are sewn in at both extremities of the lower pockets to support the weight sometimes carried in them. One of these pieces of cloth goes all the way up to the collar.

370B Label

3. Specification PQD 370B, July 9, 1943. First pattern to be mass produced and issued in quantity.
-The bottom of the sleeves are more simplified. It appears the gusset was problematic and difficult to sew resulting in a wide variation (and sloppy stitching/ redos) on these jackets.
-The patch for closing the collar is replaced by a trapezoid patch sewn behind the left side of the collar and held in place by buttons. On some jackets these are a different color than the rest of the buttons.
-The second button for the collar is no longer there.
-The size is now printed in ink below the collar.
-Makers tag is in the right lower pocket.
-Epaulets are longer than subsequent models.
-Some have OD7 color lining, others use OD3.
-Suspension loop is sometimes sewn onto the back of the collar, others underneath as with later patterns.
-Pocket flaps tend to be narrower than on future patterns.

4. Specification PQD 370C, dated October 11, 1943.
-Thicker buttons.
-The cuff gusset is longer and simplified
-The 2nd button of the patch for the collar flap is dropped
-The loop for suspending the jacket is now actually sewn in a loop. This was not so before.
-18 sizes available, three lengths, Short, Regular and Long.
-OD3 poplin lining is normally used as permission was given to use up leftover stocks of M41 jacket fabric.

370C “Pattern B” vs. 370C

5. “Pattern B”, dated Dec 31, 1943.
This is not a separate pattern, but rather an amendment to the entire 370 class of field jackets. Henceforth, 2″ is added to the breast measure and 1″ to the upper arm circumference to allow more room for the pile liner. This the point where the field jackets became huge.
-This came into effect in the middle of the 370C production run, meaning some 370C’s are the less baggy cut, while others are the larger Pattern B.
-“Pattern B” or sometimes just “B” are printed (or ink stamped) on the maker label. Some jackets also had a “B” stamped below the collar next to the size mark.

There’s that sexy how-to-wear-me label!

6. Specification PQD 370D, dated, February 23 1944.
-‘How to use’ tag added below the collar, rectangular, in cheese cloth or on fabric. A few have the small illustration seen on 370E, most are just text.
-OD3 lining is normally used.
-Later 370D’s often use OD7 HBT cloth in the pockets.

7. Specification PQD 370E,  February 13 1945.
-18 sizes, three lengths, Short, Regular and Long.
-The size tag is sewn in with the collar and the size is marked in red, blue or black.
-‘How to use’ tag now has a small drawing added. Some makers print this tag on the lining by a transfer that is ironed on.
-Some 370E’s still use OD3 lining while most now have OD7
-The breast pockets are made larger, supposedly to be able to carry K rations.
-OD7 HBT cloth is sometimes used as pocketing.

Some observations on originals

-The 370B is the most variable, likely as it was the first to be mass produced and there were near catastrophic production problems with the contractors documented in the NARA archives.

-Lining in 370B’s is sometimes OD7 (as was likely called for in the original design) and other times OD3- meaning the approval to use use leftover stocks of M41 jacket fabrics came down during production.

-When new, the cotton sateen fabric is dull on one side and rather shiny on the other. Original field uniforms were assembled with either side facing out. Whether or not one was supposed to be on the outside is unknown. After some wear and washings the shine dissipates. As the two sides are fairly different in appearance, this can lead some people to assume that some uniforms are made from some other cloth.

-The cuff gussets were a major source of headaches. Those in 370B’s are often poorly sewn, with two of my originals having been picked apart and re-sewn at the factory, I assume for having failed inspection. Some barely pass beyond the edge of the cuff, while others reach the buttonhole. On 370D-E they were extended all the way to the end of the cuff.

-The hang loop on the 370B’s neck is sometimes tacked directly to the collar (like a belt loop) and on others it’s sewn underneath as with subsequent patterns.

-The lower pocket position on all models ranges from actually on the drawcord channel to several inches below. I chose the lower position on our reproductions as it clears the pistol/ cartridge belt better.

-Pocket sizes are inconsistent. In the changes listed for 370E the pockets were to be enlarged somewhat, but it appears that the manufacturers took this as a suggestion rather than a rule. From 370B-370E the pocket dimensions are rather varied. Different length pockets for short and long sizes do not appear to have been graded out. Among all my jackets, the one with the largest breast pockets is a 370C, size 38 short. Go figure.

-Collar & lapel size varies widely- some are slender, with sharp corners, while others  would make Batman proud. My originals range from 2.25″ to 3.25″ at the lapel.

-Buttons came in a wide color assortment, ranging from caramel to forest green. A dark brownish OD is most common. A few 370B’s used wool trouser type buttons (almost a butterscotch color) for the neck flap under the collar.

-The large white instruction label that excites so many living historians was not used until the 370D pattern in 1944.

-Most common pattern? At this point, we do not have the actual production numbers from 1943-45 of each pattern. (It might yet turn up.) From collecting them over the past 20 years, I encounter more 370C’s than any other Wartime pattern. In theory, the most plentiful should be 370D’s due to the much longer production run- but in early 1944 Eisenhower himself (who disliked the M43) had thrown a monkey wrench into the ordeal which resulted in manufacture being halted for awhile. It’s possible that the rush to get the troops equipped with them later that year led to a higher percentage of the total made getting sent to the ETO and being used up. The original order for 370B’s was several hundred thousand pieces, but production problems were rampant so how many were actually made is unknown. They are sometimes consider ultra rare, but I managed to acquire 9 or 10 in one year from trolling ebay. That does not jive with only a handful having been made.

-RC