Category Archives: WW2 German camouflage

Waffen-SS Helmet Covers

This is the last installment on the ins and outs of the most expensive helmet decorations in the universe.

Made from scraps: Over the years, I have read and heard much yammering about covers and caps being made from scraps left over from smock production, attempting to explain the tendency for the use of parts in multiple shades and patterns on most Waffen-SS camo items. There are two reasons this is not likely nor even feasible.

First, most garment manufacturers specialize in one or two types of garments. Cap companies make caps, tent companies make tents (and shelter quarters) and garment companies often make just one thing- such as shirts or jackets or trousers- a few make multiple items, but it’s very common for it to be one. This is for reasons of efficiency as they literally count every second of production time when computing their costs. Thus it’s very probable that these items were not made in the same places.

Second, and more importantly, efficient cutting is one of the most important aspects to garment manufacture. The scraps remaining from cutting smocks and Zeltbahns are minimal- typically just slivers. I know because I’ve personally laid out the patterns and cut them.

Shading: It’s extremely rare to find original covers (or any WWII German camo) on which all parts are the identical shade or even pattern. The logical explanation for the mixed shades is quite simple.

In factories, fabric is cut many layers deep (up to 100) with a power knife or dies. To do a spread on a cutting table typically requires multiple rolls of fabric, and even the same run of fabric will have shade changes. When one has thousands of parts, in multiple shades, from multiple cuts, keeping them in matching color order is a nightmare and was obviously not a requirement.

Markings: Occasionally, one does find legitimate markings on original covers. These are exclusively related to the size of the cover. I have never, ever seen a maker mark, a year nor the much sought after Buffalo Wings stamp.

If marked, one usually finds an Arabic 1, 2 or 3 stamped in black or violet ink, typically toward the rear of the cover. Others have the size range of the liner, such as 56-59. The handful of those I have encountered were stamped on the lower front. Most covers are unmarked.

Profile: Some ado has been made about how the cover follows the profile of the helmet- namely along the lower edge of the sides. This is more a reenactor argument than one among collectors.

There is no one and only here. Some covers follow the lower edge of the helmet nicely (bottom cover), while others are practically “flat” (top cover). This trait is dependent upon how the parts were cut as well as how the worker folded the bottom seam.

Double needle seams: Some WWII covers are made using a two-needle machine. One will see two perfectly parallel rows of stitches on both sides of the fabric on the two seams that join the center panel to the sides. Many covers were also made with normal single need machines which produce one visible row of stitching on one side and two imperfectly parallel rows on the other.

I have never seen true double needle stitching on a reproduction. Not yet anyway.

Note that at least one faker has attempted to recreate the two-needle stitch with a single needle machine. This produces two visible rows on both sides, but it’s impossible to keep them perfectly parallel. Look for railroad tracks- even when they curve, they stay evenly spaced. If one finds an imitation double needle stitch, the item is fake. Period.

Original spring covers are typically folded by rotating the piece rather than sides and ends together. Why? It may be a few seconds faster.

Spring Covers: The rectangular covers that encase the rocker clips vary in width and length and are frequently a different shade or pattern than the main panels. On a few helmet covers I have seen, one or more of the spring covers was flipped green side out.

On early helmet covers, the top of the top of the spring is secured with hand stitched heavy cord to the top of the spring cover, and only the sides are sewn down. On later covers, a sliver of fabric is threaded through the top of the spring, and this is then stitched down along with the top of the spring cover.
One small revelation here- on nearly every original I have fondled, the spring covers are folded by being rotated- side, end, side, end as opposed to doing both ends and both sides. (photo above)This may have been an attempt to save a few seconds of production time.

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A very well made fake, but the maker cut the fabric on the bias (diagonally to the grain.)

Direction of grain: The weave of a fabric creates a “grain”. In the case of helmet covers, the fibers of the cotton poplin run horizontally and vertically. Standard practice is to cut parts either perpendicularly or parallel to the sides of the cloth. If cut diagonally, the parts tend to stretch and deform when sewn making the ends not meet evenly and so forth. Cutting parts diagonally to the grain is referred to as “on the bias”. Parts that do need to stretch, such as sleeve binding and neck bands are cut this way.

If one sees the grain of the fabric running diagonally on an “original” cover, it’s a bad sign. Although I have seen this on one or two originals, I consider legitimate, only one of their three main panels was cut this way. (This isn’t relevant on the visors.) This is a red flag, but not a complete panacea.
Why would anyone cut a cover on the bias? Either they failed sewing 101, or, most likely they have limited fabric and are trying to fit the pattern to the piece they have. This can happen if one is say working along the edge of a triangle…or when they wanted to utilize a smaller piece of cloth- such as the leftover end of a roll or the good portion cut from an area of damaged fabric. Thus, it’s not impossible to have happened in 1943, but it’s atypical.

This is hard! Sadly, if someone is skillful, has real fabric (a Zeltbahn), and excellent repro clips (or original) it can be very difficult to discern a fake. There is no easy-one-and-only-magic bullet. The determination of yay or nay is made by observing multiple details. I remain undecided on probably 10-20% of the covers I handle.

Summation: As with many things, your first warning is always “too good to be true”. A real cover for $1500 that’s been on ebay for 6 months is not real. (In 25 years I’ve seen a grand total of ONE real cover on ebay- and that was in the last year.)

If it’s oddball (brass clips, drawstring, 44 dot) walk away no matter how good the story. Speaking of stories, never base authenticity on the seller’s yarn. I recommend sticking with reputable sellers with right of return policies even though one will not get a steal deal.
Conversely, if it’s $10 at a yard sale, go for it. Simple.

Smock Cutting Facts


As many readers are aware, the field of German WWII camouflage is overpopulated with countless experts (Wizards) who pump out facts on social media with little or no experience with originals much less actually making this stuff.

One of the oldest fairy tales is that caps and helmet covers were made from scraps and leftovers from cutting smocks and shelter quarters. This is highly unlikely, to the point I’m comfortable putting it in the total fantasy category.

When one cuts smocks and shelter quarters (which I have personally done), there is little left aside from slivers. First off, factories do not cut garments one by one with scissors. The cutter determines how long a stretch of cloth they need for what they are cutting, then the fabric is rolled out and stacked in multiple layers. The pattern is laid or drawn on the top layer, and cutting is done with a power knife. Small parts are sometimes cut with dies on a press. With this cotton poplin camo fabric, it’s possible to cut up to 50 layers comfortably.

As a side note, regarding the shading of most camouflage items. The cutting tables in factories are often dozens or hundreds of feet long. Fabric typically comes on rolls of no more than 100 yards (to keep it manageable) which means each roll may only yield a few layers in a spread. Thus, one spread could be made up of 5-10 different rolls, possibly in multiple shades or patterns of cloth. Hence the mix-match on WWII items.

Keeping how cutting is done in mind, with regards to shelter quarters, if one has had second grade geometry it’s not too difficult to envision how two triangles, joined at the hypotenuse, make a rectangle. That takes up almost the entire width of the cloth (the Germans had a about 5cm extra on each side). All that remains from cutting Zelts is narrow strips or slivers on the side. This explains why the borders and neck flaps are so often different from the Zeltbahn– they were cut separately.

But smocks?? Pretty much the same situation. Above is a photo of the cutting of the “Long” sizes we just did. Note that original fabric is about 6 inches narrower than ours is, so the ends of the smock sleeves go all the went to the edge, leaving even less than what one sees here.

With the smock body being a large cross shape, there remains space in the four corners of the cutting block, giving just enough space to yield the sleeves, cuffs, and plackets. Camo loops and waist bands would have been cut separately in long strips for efficiency which is why they typically don’t match the smocks at all on originals. The leftovers are typically odd shaped and too short to be useful for much of anything.

And yes, of late we really have been using MP44 mags for pattern weights simply because they work well.



Neck bands:
This is one piece that cannot be efficiently cut with the smocks at all. How can I know such a thing? Simple. Just like sleeve binding and collars, neck bands are cut on the bias (diagonally). Otherwise, they will bind and end up puckered and wrinkled when the workers try to sew them around the neck hole. They are not cut in a “C” shape. This is basic garment sewing 101.

For incredulous types, the photo above is of an original smock- one can actually see that the grain of the fabric of the band is running diagonally. Moreover, note that it has been made from two pieces of fabric and that the seam joining them is also diagonal. Why? Again, simple geometry. I’ve had original smocks with neck bands made from as many as 3 pieces.

I’ve learned this both from making the things as well as fondling and loving on original smocks for the past 30 years. It’s basically forensics, not something I pulled out of my rear or determined by zooming in on photos online.

German Helmet Cover Fit

The two original covers used for our patterns.

German camouflage is one of the most popular categories of militaria both in the collector market as well as among reenactors/ living historians. With originals being some of the most expensive clothing in the universe, knowing what’s what can potentially mean thousands of dollars made or squandered for those attempting to hoard it. It also means that many people don’t have access to the authentic examples aside from images on the internet and in reference books.

Naturally, this has led to much expertise posted online being based on such photos or, amusingly, examination of reproductions that were supposedly copied directly from originals. When one has actual WWII examples in hand, it’s often obvious that there might have been some exaggeration somewhere along the line.

Due to some enthusiasts being loyal fans of particular brands of reproductions, we occasionally get lectured on the shortcomings of ours due to them not matching up to this or that other reproduction.

This is easily refuted by showing the old junk I copied, something rarely seen elsewhere- which actually surprises me a bit. As a bonus, I know that many others enjoy these displays and keeps the spam less boring than simply “here’s our stuff- please buy it.” Ugh.

OK, helmet cover details. WWII Waffen-SS covers have a somewhat distinct fit. Unless one has made helmet covers (or hats) it’s probably not obvious how a very small difference (like 1cm) in the size of a panel or a minute change in a radius can make a night and day difference in the end result. In other words, it’s much harder to get this right than it appears.

The photo above shows the two original covers used for our penultimate patterns we now use. The size 3 is a late War type with every time saving change possible used in its construction. The size 2 is a typical early example.

I made my first helmet cover in 1988, using a reproduction I cut up for the pattern- one that, luckily, turned out not to be not too far off of the originals. Years later when I became a militaria merchant, I tweaked that pattern down a bit to create a size 2.

The three main panels of a cover

As time went by and I began to acquire original covers, I noticed that they had a better fit than ours. I could see that the center panel was narrower and more flared at the ends than mine. So, I set out to perfect the pattern based on actual WWII covers.

My pattern-making training is largely by experience- decades later I’m still only a novice. This, combined with originals being too expensive to disassemble meant endless trial and error. It turned out to be be far more difficult to reverse engineer the curves of the center panel and particularly the forward faces of the sides than I dreamed. At one point I was seriously contemplating disassembly of a damaged size 2 that I had. (Not pictured).

Would anyone notice? Probably not. Would we sell more if I got the curve right? Doubtful. It just triggered my side of the spectrum and drove me nuts. Luckily for the damaged cover, after a dozen or more tweaks and test covers, we got it right.

The center panel is notably flared at the ends. On WWII covers, the center panel is about 9-10cm wide at the top of the helmet and it broadens out to 19-22cm (depending on the size) where it meets the visor. The side panels are far more squarish than one might expect.

As stated above, a small change can wreck the cover- if the seam allowance isn’t observed (1.5cm) or the cutter slices off too much of a panel the cover will instantly become one size (or more) smaller than intended.

This is why we sew the blasted things here- the overseas contractors can make a nice tunic, but they jack up helmet covers every try.

Yes, originals do vary some but not as much as one might assume considering the circumstances under which these were likely made. Despite WWII covers, particularly the late ones, having rather erratic visors, spring covers and camo loops, with stitching that often looks like chit, the manufacturing tolerances where it counted appear to have been adhered to pretty closely.

One punch = 30 panels

For more insurance, we went the extra mile and had cutting dies made for helmet covers (and camo caps.) This prevents any cutting errors and keeps the parts totally consistent year after year.

Was this done in WWII? There’s no way to know, but it’s been fairly common practice at sewing factories for over a century so I consider it likely. It can save several minutes per item which is an eternity for a garment contractor.

Smock Sleeves

Some (or many) may shake their heads at some of these posts. Do people really care about tunic pocket angles and smock sleeve diameters? Yes, there is a pretty diehard group of uniform enthusiasts who get amped up over such things. Is this only in regard to German militaria? Not really. There are niches like this in the world of GI stuff as well.

German camouflage is extremely popular and much of the information regarding it on the internet is interesting to put it mildly. “Wishful thinking” or “their own truths” would be a better describe much of it. Occasionally giving the can a kick with some photos of originals and tape measures is informative and good sport to boot.

Smock sleeves

Today’s exciting fact regards the size of smock sleeves. (Get the popcorn out.) Those on most reproductions are too narrow- they’re not baggy enough.

I discovered this in the early 1990’s when I acquired an original overprint smock which I wore to countless events for the next 15 years. The first time I tried it on, the size of the sleeves stood out immediately- I had total freedom of movement and they did not pull at all. Even with a greatcoat on.

At 5’10”, 190lbs I was a bit larger than the average guy in 1943, but the smock was totally comfortable with room to spare. I had what were considered the best reproduction smocks at that time (today as well) and none had sleeves as baggy or long. I knew the manufacturer and asked repeatedly for a repro with sleeves like the original but that went nowhere. It drove me nuts.

Over the years, both due to us manufacturing such things, as well as my own nerdy obsessions, I have measured just about every original smock I have come in contact with. At one point I started a spreadsheet, but there was so little deviation I decided that was pointless. I’ve owned about 30 smocks since then, so adding in the others that were measured at shows and in collections I’m likely over 100 by now. They’re very consistent.

Poplin vs. HBT

Whether M38, M40, M42, Splinter or Marsh, the circumference of the arms on originals is 50cm. When measured flat, that’s 25cm or about 10 inches (9.84 to be exact).

Most of the smocks were Waffen-SS poplin types so I was checking this at the forearm seam. For HBT smocks, that point is about 20cm above the cuff seam. Once in a while, one sleeve (rarely both) will be a bit less, but I think 9.25″ was the smallest, and that can be chalked up to really sloppy sewing or cutting.

I currently have 11 original smocks and every one of their 22 sleeves are almost exactly 25cm wide.

For comparison, original Feldblusen sleeves run 7-9 inches (depending on size) measured in the same location.

Most reproductions are 8-9 inches, occasionally less. Yes, one can very much tell when they try one on. Regarding reproductions, the worst offenders are the ones from ebay that come in 5 sizes. However, it is very rare to find any reproductions that are as large as the originals- even the “creme de la creme” of repro pullovers are usually smaller. Either they copied a copy (that was “just like an original”) or perhaps they had a real one, but the pattern maker was incompetent.

Why do some smocks have sleeve seams at the shoulder? Simple. Those are almost always the ones made from HBT (Drillich) fabric. That cloth was much narrower making it impossible to put the seam at the forearm.

Drillich cloth width:

The pieces of original HBT I have measured range from 30-34 inches in width. By comparison, the cotton poplin used for Zeltbahns, Waffen-SS smocks and so forth was 53-55 inches in width.

Assumedly with every loom in central Europe making fabric for the German military at this time, a bit of variation is understandable. Did wide Drillich exist? Hell if I know. Ask Elon for a ride in his time machine and let us know.

Planetree

 


“Plane Tree” Camouflage
All items pictured on this page are original, WWII production except the tree and the SPW (it’s partially original).

During WWII, the German military developed, produced and utilized well over a dozen unique camouflage designs for their troops. The majority of these designs were created and worn by the SS formations. Today, authentic wartime examples are some of the most popular and expensive pieces in the military (and camouflage) collecting world.

The “Plane Tree” patterns are among the most famous, yet the reason for their design and specific purpose are often poorly understood. Their large size also makes them quite difficult to accurately reproduce. This article will seek to clear up some of the myths and mysteries regarding these patterns.

The Name: To date, despite quite a bit of archival, wartime SS correspondence regarding their patterns being available, the actual names or designations of the various camouflages have not been found. All names currently used to distinguish the various patterns are late 20th century collector inventions.

In the case of Planetree, the name refers to the significant similarity to the camouflage pattern and the bark of Planetrees, known by that name in Europe and “sycamore” in the USA.

Development: Shortly after the SS-VT units were established, one of the battalion adjutants conceived the idea to create camouflage jackets and helmet covers for the new troops. His idea was accepted and in 1935, a man named Linnekogel was hired to oversee the project. The design team quickly rejected the geometric patterns then in use by the Army as ineffective and decided to create their own. However, before much work was done, Linnekogel died, and Professor J.G. Otto Schick was hired to fill his position. Schick, in turn, hired Adolf Schmid, an artist who had previously worked for the German Army as his assistant. Together they would create some of the most famous and effective camouflage designs in history.

Schick’s team spent considerable time in the field, studying and testing colors and shapes to determine the best combinations to break up outlines and conceal troops. Manufacturing firms were consulted to explore all available printing methods, and great effort was expended developing the fabric. The goal was to recreate the appearance of natural foliage as closely as possible, on a tough and hard wearing fabric.

During their research, the team determined that the most effective design would have a natural, irregular flowing form, without repetitions. These goals, random flow and avoiding repetitions, would come to dominate nearly every one of their designs in the coming years. The Planetree patterns would actually be the penultimate designs, with those following them seeking to maintain the effect while being more efficient to produce.

Size: Nearly all camouflage patterns are designed for rotary printing, and their size is thus restricted by the circumference of the available rollers- typically 18″-24″. US WWII “Frogskin” camouflage is only 14 inches. The numbered Plantree patterns are entirely different animals- they have “repeats” of 85 inches, or just over 7 feet. This mades them very difficult to produce- both in 1940 and today.

 

One repeat. One.


Planetree Patterns- purpose made:
The initial patterns appeared in 1936-1937. Two classes of patterns were made- Zeltbahn patterns (the numbered designs) and un-numbered smock patterns; Block, Lateral and later, Polyspot. For many years it has been known that the numbered patterns were designed specifically for shelter quarters with the cutting pattern for the triangular main panels actually incorporated in the camouflage design. The repeat of is nearly 7 feet long- exactly enough to cut two Zeltbahn panels. However, my assertion about the other patterns is “new”. Block and Lateral patterns are 30 inches long- exactly the measure of a smock from shoulder to hem. Connect the dots. The Germans always have a system- Ordnung!

 

SS-VT Zeltbahnen 1940-41 Planetree 1-2 Planetree in action, as designed

Numbered Planetree Patterns: There are three similar but unique designs in this group, described by the numbers incorporated in the patterns. 1-2, 3-4, and 5-6. Each one has a different series of patches, spots and blobs, and each uses a slightly different color palette. However, they are designed so that, no matter how the shelter quarters are buttoned together, the camouflage patterns will interlock and continue to flow. Above and below- note how the camouflage interlocks with that on the adjoining panels.

 

As designed, any number of planetree shelter quarters will interlock and “flow”

 

 

The Designs: The concept is actually ingenious and fairly simple. Each Numbered Planetree pattern actually consists of TWO patterns. Each is roughly 5ft x 7ft, and incorporates a series of dark blocks in a “Z” shape to indicate the cut lines for two Zeltbahn panels. Due to geometric rules, this creates two left or two right panels, necessitating a second pattern to yield the opposite sides. Each pattern has two numbers, one each on opposite corners 1 and 2, 3 and 4, or 5 and 6. These are on both right and left patterns and are used to help the workers doing the printing and those cutting the cloth keep track of which they’re working on.

 

1-2 Spring Colors 3-4 Fall Colors 5-6 Spring Colors
1-2 Fall Colors 3-4 Spring Colors 5-6 Fall Colors

 

Overprint- saving time: By 1943, the Germans had found a way to speed up production of the planetree patterns. Using rotary printing, they applied the two lighter colors from oakleaf and blurred edge, then flat screen printed the dark color over these. (Occasionally this was done in reverse- “underprinting”.) All three numbered patterns were utilized in this way. Of note, the diagonal cutting blocks were moved apart and staggered, like a checkerboard, likely as this presented a more obvious line that the sometimes faint dashed lines. It’s very common to find these shelter quarters assembled with no regard for the assembly design.

 

Overprint 1-2 Spring Colors


Overprint 1-2 Fall Colors

 

 

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Cutting the panels: For the illustration below, only the key parts of the dark
screen are present, to show how the cutting lines for the right and left
Zeltbahn panels are actually incorporated into the camouflage design, and how
they are designed to be cut. At some point (42-43?) the diagonal dashed lines
were removed and the blocks staggered to indicate the cut line.

 



To make a Zeltbahn as designed, required two rolls of fabric. One with left panels in Spring colors, and right panels in Fall colors, and another with right Spring and left Fall. Each print uses three colors- a 4th is created by two of the others overlapping.

The pattern was designed in such a way that all four Zeltbahn panels were unique- in other words, one could have created the right pattern, then simply inverted it (mirror image) to make the left pattern. Likewise the two triangles created by each pattern could have been identical, but they are not. Therefore, each Planetree pattern can result four uniquely different designs. For example the Plantree 5-6 pattern can yield Zeltbahns numbered 5-5, 6-6, 5-6, or 6-5. Thus, the three Planetree patterns potentially create shelter quarters in not three, but twelve unique camouflage patterns.

 

When assembled as designed, the numbers are located toward the bottom center of each Zeltbahn. In order for the camouflage to interlock when buttoned to other shelter quarters, they need to be cut and sewn following the cut lines in the pattern.

 

Planetree 1-2 Zeltbahn assembled with two
left side panels, with the left one not even cut
properly.
Same Zeltbahn at left, Fall side “Overprint” 1-2 made from right and left
panels, but the cutting lines were dis-regarded

Assembly- didn’t always go as planned: Inevitably, the contractors did not always follow the designers’ intentions when cutting and sewing Zeltbahns. It is not uncommon to encounter original Zeltbahns which were not assembled “as designed”. Hence I did not use the term “incorrectly” to describe this condition. Somewhat ironically, when this occurs, the regular arrangement of the cutting blocks is actually detrimental to the concealment effect as they tend to stand out.

Why three patterns? The answer, although not documented, appears to be self evident. Randomization and nearly total elimination of any visible repetition in the patterns. In one of the references in Mike Beaver’s book, it says that Schick was given free reign to create the best camouflage possible, irregardless of cost since lives were at stake. The number and style of these patterns basically means that among a platoon of troops wearing planetree smocks and helmet covers, the chance of any two men having identical garments is nil. Brilliant, ingenious, but a logistical nightmare.

Printing: Rotary printing had recently been developed, but it was not possible to create and utilize rollers with a circumference of 7 feet. The only way to achieve Schick’s goal of a pattern large enough that did not repeat on the Zeltbahn, was via the much slower method of flat screen printing. Rotary printing is infinitely more efficient- one can print thousands of meters per day as opposed to perhaps a few hundred at best with the hand operated flat screen method. Even today, the largest rollers available are about 24 inches in circumference. Once the War began, and the Waffen SS exploded from 18,000 troops to hundreds of thousands, rotary printed patterns had to be developed in order to keep pace with the supply needs. Despite this, the Planetree patterns appear to have been produced until the end of the War.

Rainbows of colors: All original German camouflage patterns exhibit a wide range of shades. Yes, there were surely color standards. However, the dyes were likely hand mixed, and even a slight deviation from the color formulas can cause notable variations. On some examples, it’s apparent that the dyes were too thin- with substantial bleeding around the edges of the colors, or extremely pale shades when too little pigment was in the mix. Additionally, as the War went on, the fabric quality varied. Changes in the fiber content as well as poorly prepped fabric can cause a number of printing irregularities.

 

Note the substantial differences just in the numbers.

 

Variations in the pattern- hand painted screens: If one compares two camouflage of the same pattern, small variations in the pattern will be apparent. This is due to the screens
being made manually with drawing fluid. Essentially, the reverse of each color was painted onto the fine mesh to create as stencil. Occasionally, on samples where the dye was the proper viscosity and the screen pressed tightly on the fabric, one cane actually see the brush marks at the edge of the color blocks made when the worker was creating the mask.

Thus, even two apparently identical items, same maker and year,
will show minor differences in the pattern if you lay them right next to
each other and compare point to point. They tend to be 85-95%
identical, but some spots are bigger or smaller, a few may be missing
and the cut blocks sometimes aren’t staggered very much. Roller patterns
are the same way. This is also why 44 dot has “big & small” dots.
Different screens created by different hands at different times. Hans painted outside the lines while Franz went inside the lines = a substantial variation in small spots.

Also, the ink was sometimes thinned more causing more bleed- ie:
fatter numbers softer edges on the blobs and so forth. Like the top
zelt in the pic below.

 

 

Transitions: In addition to the variations with individual screens, the patterns were constantly being changed, adjusted and improved. There is a distinct trend of breaking up the larger color blocks as time went on. Pre-war renditions of the patterns have larger areas of open color with no blobs or spots. That said, when compared year over year, the lineage is very clear.

 

The little crosses: Each flat screen pattern incorporates register marks- small crosses to allow the printers to align the screens so the colors overlap properly. They are typically positioned in the middle and on each side of the artwork.

 

Planetree 5-6 diagonal cut
lines.
Planetree 1-2 bottom & diagonal
cut lines, plus register marks.
Later checkerboard diagonal
cut lines, Overprint 1-2.

Cutting: The design of the shelter quarter panels was incorporated into the camouflage patterns. The bottom lines were indicated by staggered blocks and the diagonal edge used dashed lines. On later screens, this was often changed to staggered blocks as well.

 

The classic miss- the screens
weren’t aligned quite right from
one repeat to the next.

Misses: Often one observes white lines or streaks on period Planetree camouflage. These are simply due to the screens not having been placed perfectly over the fabric during printing, leaving a small area without dye. It most frequently occurs at the joints where each repeat meets (along the top or bottom “cut blocks” but can also occur along the sides or anywhere the fabric had a crease or fold.

 

. .
. Dribble, dribble, messy, messy…. .

Drips & Smears: When the workers lifted the screens to move to the next panel, dye often dripped off the bottom leaving dibbles on the fabric. Likewise, the screens occasionally had ink spilled on the bottom surface which was then transferred to the next panel, leaving a vairety of smudges or smears.

Screw ups: Occasionally, screen errors are encountered. These range from colors swapped between screens (which leads to some very odd looking prints), to wrong panels or numbers on the reverse sides and, in several cases, different patterns being printed on the Spring and Fall side. These were done by hand, likely under pressure and possibly by workers who were less than motivated.

The other Planetree Patterns- No numbers: There are four other “Planetree” patterns without numbers and cut lines. The first two are Lateral and Polyspot (early & late variants). Although also printed with flat screens, their repeat is much smaller- about 30 inches- which just happens to be the distance from shoulder to hem on a smock. Given the effort put into the numbered designs to avoid a repeat on shelter halves, I find the size of these patterns to be too convenient to be a mere coincidence. I’m confidant that these designs were designed to be used for smock production.

 


Lateral, Spring Colors

Polyspot, (Late) Spring Colors

Un-numbered 5-6, Spring Colors

Lateral, Fall Colors

Polyspot, (Late) Fall Colors

Un-numbered 5-6, Fall Spring

Lateral appears as early as 1937 (as small parts on numbered Planetree Zeltbahns), and early style helmet covers (usually with hand tacked spring tops). One or two M38 smocks are known to exist. I consider it highly likely that some complete shelter quarters were manufactured in Lateral (due to it’s presence on shelter quarters) but to date, no surviving examples have been photographed.

Polyspot is likewise rather rare, with a handful of smocks, covers, caps and shelter quarters known to exist. All of these appear to be of 1940-43 manufacture.

The third pattern retains the large repeat of the numbered designs, yet it dispenses with the blocks and cut lines entirely. It’s appearance is strikingly similar to the 5-6 Planetree pattern- thus collectors refer to it as “Un-numbered 5-6”. The pattern does not repeat meaning it’s also 5ft x 7ft. I suspect this was an attempt to create a design that didn’t require right and left patterns and all the special cutting efforts while still maintaining the camouflage effect. It does not interlock with the other patterns. Likewise uncommon, a handful of original examples of M42 smocks, shelter quarters and helmet covers exist

Garments:
All of the planetree patterns, both with and without numbers, were used in the manufacture of caps, helmet covers and the famous Tarnjacken. The original intent may have been to reserve the numbered patterns for shelter quarters but it obviously did not last long. The cut lines and blocks were of no concern when making garments and the fabric was stacked and cut like any other.

 

Many “camo experts” said these
didn’t happen. Nothing better than
original proof to the contrary.
Authentic Polyspot Zeltbahn, from the
grommet number and type this is mid-War
production, just like surviving caps, covers,
and smocks.

The reverse was also true: Although uncommon, lateral and polyspot “smock” patterns were used to manufacture shelter quarters. A handful of polyspot examples exist today, and the presence of lateral parts on many early production pieces means it was present in the tent factory(s) making the chances it was used for shelter quarters very likely. (One of the oldest and most experienced collectors I know swears he had one in the 70’s but cannot find the photos.)

Remember, statistically, only a tiny fraction of the WSS camouflage made during the War survived- and the pre-War items are nearly non-existent. Production was very limited at that time ( a few thousand pieces) and it’s likely that 99% (or more) of the camouflage items produced in 1937-39 did not survive the War, and many variations will remain unknown. 

German Camouflage Caps

Late in 1942, the Germans introduced a new field cap.  The caps were made from the same camouflage and fabric as their smocks and helmet covers, and were likewise reversible from Fall to Spring colors. Early production caps were fitted insignia, color coordinated to the appropriate sides of the fabric. This feature was dropped quickly and the vast majority of these hats were produced devoid of insignia. Caps were manufactured with and without air vents, and the vents can be machine sewn or painted steel eyelets.

The “M42” designation often seen today is creation of militaria collectors, not the German military. The camouflage cap was produced in virtually all of the patterns used for smocks and helmet covers, with possible exceptions of the rare pre-War designs such as “Variegated Leaf”, however, the extreme rarity of such patterns may simply mean that there are no surviving examples.  They became general issue throughout the WSS and it’s likely this was restricted to combat units as was the case with other camouflage garments.

The design of the camouflage caps is quite basic. The parts consist of the sides, a sweatband, top and visor, with an insert made of split (essentially waste) leather. Although the profile of the cap is consistent with other German field caps,  there are no fake folds and no lining due to the requirement that the caps be reversible.

The sweatband is sewn on the “Fall” side of the cap, but it appears most wearers rarely used this feature. In period photos, it’s extremely rare to find one with the band on the outside indicating the cap is being worn “brown side” out.

As with nearly all German uniform items, there are minor variations visible among surviving examples. Although generally more homogeneous than smocks and helmet covers,  some caps are assembled with parts cut from different shades or patterns. Caps made from all matching parts not uncommon. Although long and short visors exist, most are about the same as the wool M43 caps (about 6cm).

The front peaks typically run from 8-9cm which is similar to DAK caps and lower than M43’s. Thread color is similar to that used on helmet covers, with numerous shades of gray and tan being found, often on the same cap. This is simply due to the caps being made on an assembly line, with several machine operators working on each cap- not every one had the same shade of thread in their machine.

When size markings are found, they are typically just the metric size, ink stamped on the top of the cap on the “Fall” side. SSBW, dates, eagles and the like are postwar fantasy.

No original examples nor period photos exist of these caps having been made in “44 Dot” pattern camouflage. Numerous period photos exist of various styles of field or tailor made camouflage caps, in WSS patterns as well as M39 Italian cloth.  However, these were custom made items, not actual issue.

Distinguishing originals. Authentic examples of these caps today are worth several thousand dollars- but the vast majority offered for sale are postwar fakes. The main problem is that they consist simply of a couple square feet of fabric and thread,  an original SS Zeltbahn yields enough period cloth to make half a dozen caps. This makes them one of the toughest items of WWII German militaria to confidently authenticate.

Given the availability of authentic materials, and aside from outright stupid errors in the pattern or assembly of a cap (it happens frequently as many fraudsters are not as talented as they think), about the only thing to determine is when the cap was made. Despite having collected WSS camo since 1981, caps are the one thing that still often vex me. Perhaps 25% of the time, (when confronted with a cap made from authentic fabric) I simply pass as I cannot be sure.

Found a possibly original cap? On something as small as cap, there is no magic panacea- it’s just feel and experience. Firstly, one needs to be able to separate WWII camo fabric from reproduction. If the fabric is the real stuff, then move on to the stitching. Warning! Many  Zeltbahn has been “re-purposed” into caps and helmet covers over the past 40 years- such fakes are very, very common.

Well worn caps are simpler to deal with in this regard. As with the blurred edge cap above, the stitching is obviously old, the stitches are relaxed and the thread is faded. Typically, the caps were worn green side out, so the wear and sweat stains are usually on the brown side.
The wear, sweat and exposure also gives the hat a form, almost as though it is still on someone’s head. Caution- many collectors love dirt and grime- they equate it with real age. One needs to learn how to tell the difference and I don’t have room here to go into all that.

On lightly worn or newish condition caps, that are correctly made, it really comes down to the seams and stitches. One simply cannot use rotten thread in a machine- it breaks every stitch or two.

Above is the stiffener from an original M43 cap that I dis-assembled many years ago (it lost its battle with a herd of moths so I wasn’t really assaulting history.) It is made from split leather- NOT pressed paper as many collectors insist. I have seen two mutilated camo caps where this piece was visible and both had the same material.  Treated leather, even if old and dry, has a different feel than pressed paper. Even though it’s not normally visible, if I feel creased paper inside a visor, the red flags start waving and no such cap has passed muster on other details.

The real danger here are caps made with real fabric and thread, worn for a long time by reenactors or whoever. Those will have genuine wear, forming and sweat stains. Scared? Me too. These caps can be a bitch. I made the plane tree camo cap above around 1990 and wore it to dozens of events. The thread and fabric are all authentic and the wear and tear is real.

One fallback for any authenticity questions is to become a member of one of the collector forums, where one can post photos of potential purchases ans ask questions. (I use Wehrmacht Awards) On the “real or fake” queries, I have found the answers to be accurate the majority of the time. Right or wrong, if an item is blessed on a well regarded forum, it’s likely to be good- or at least everyone thinks it is.

The small annual fee is nothing compared to the pain when one drops several thousand dollars on an old SMW camo cap that’s been humped up by Fast Freddy’s Ebay Treasures.